The Old Royal Palace, Berlin |
Succeeding Prussian rulers made various improvements to the building including the large dome atop the south wing in 1850 to a design by Schinkel. Improvements and alterations ended with the last reigning Monarch, Emperor Wilhelm II, who abdicated in 1918. At this point the Palace contained an impressive 700 rooms.
Stadtschloss, Berlin. The series of rooms we shall tour are generally situated on the left side of the Palace facing the Lustgarten. |
The fate of the Palace was sealed during the Second World War when it caught alight and burnt for four days after a heavy bombing and incendiary raid on the 3rd February 1945. No attempt was made by a resigned and demoralised population to extinguish the flames. Heavy artillery fire then caused further damage. Apart from the White Saloon [Der Weiße Saal] and the rooms below it which appear to have escaped the fire the ruins were cordoned off until 1950 when they were demolished on the orders of the ruling East German Communist Party to create a parade ground. While other notable buildings throughout Germany were in a similar or worse condition and either restored or at least secured for the future the remains of this historic building were ruthlessly pulled down after an eventful 500 year history.
While the German Parliament have agreed to partially fund a rebuilding of this magnificent baroque building to commence in 2014 the interior will however be entirely modern including the north east wing featured in this tour. It may well be that later generations may decide to restore some of the notable rooms and an allowance for this has been made in the designs. But for the foreseable future we need to rely on an an extant collection of black & white and colour images of the old Palace interiors.
Stadschloss, Berlin |
While the German Parliament have agreed to partially fund a rebuilding of this magnificent baroque building to commence in 2014 the interior will however be entirely modern including the north east wing featured in this tour. It may well be that later generations may decide to restore some of the notable rooms and an allowance for this has been made in the designs. But for the foreseable future we need to rely on an an extant collection of black & white and colour images of the old Palace interiors.
Let us now explore the old Palace, the tour being based on a 1900 plan of the State Apartments. Please click on images for a larger view. We first enter the Palace through Portal VI facing the Second or Inner Court :
Location of Entrance through Portal VI |
Portal VI |
We now ascend the Schlüter staircase to the Schweitzer Saal on the second floor where all the main State Rooms are located.
Location of the Schlüter staircase |
The Schlüter Staircase from a painting by Eduard Gärtner, 1828 |
We now reach Schlüter's Schweitzersaal [Swiss Hall] or Old Guard Room. The name commemorates the Prussian Ruler's Swiss Guard. An impression of space is achieved by elegant Corinthian pilasters topped with a frieze and further painted architectural features under a simulated cloudy sky.
Location of Der Schweitzersaal |
Der Schweitzersaal as built by Schlüter after 1700 |
We next enter Die Paradevorkammern [Parade Rooms], being two ante-rooms. One contains portraits of the Mother, Sister & Wife of Frederick the Great by Antoine Pesne. In the other are portraits of the "Great Elector" and his family, Friedrich Wilhelm I as Crown Prince, plus Peter the Great and Catherine II of Russia .
The decoration and impressive painted ceilings created a theatrical sense of power and prestige as visiting foreign envoys and officials proceed through the various rooms before being formally received by the Elector or King.
Location of the Parade Rooms |
The 2nd Parade Room Ceiling |
The 2nd Parade Room |
Next we enter Das Königszimmer [The King's Room] which contains the portraits of all the Prussian Kings and their Consorts down to King Friedrich.
Audiences were held in this room which contains a stuccoed and painted ceiling, again to a design by Schlüter. Carved allegorical figures in the upper corners illustrate the virtues of the ruler.
To the east lay the private apartments of the "Great Elector" Friedrich Wilhelm I (reigned 1640-1688). These were generally never open to the public until after the abdication of Wilhelm II in 1918. The State Apartments by Schlüter, which were all somewhat overladen with ornamentation, continue to the west.
Das Königzimmer |
Die Drap d’Or Kammer [The Drap d'Or Chamber] is one of Schlüter's most lavish rooms, being a testament to his creative abilities and the craftsmanship of his skilled craftsmen. The alabaster figures above the fireplace are believed to be the work of the young Balthasar Permoser whose work may still be viewed in the Dresden Zwinger. King Friedrich III held council in Die Drap d'Or Chamber and in the evening the room served as a smoking room. The room contains a handsome silver memorial and shield presented by the City of
Die Drap d'Or Kammer |
Location of The Drap d'Or Chamber |
Die Rote Adler Kammer [The Red Eagle Chamber] also known as Die Brandenburgische Kammer [The Brandenburg Chamber] is adorned with Camphausen’s picture of the "Great Elector" and his Generals.
Corinthian pilasters divided this room which was primarily used for festivities. The elaborate allegorical ceiling paintings by Samuel Theodore Guerikes show the truth, personified by a naked female figure presented in 1701 with the Royal Crown of the new Kingdom of Prussia by the Ancient Assembly of Gods - thus representing the World. The carved and gilded stucco figures enriched the scene with further symbols representing the State of Brandenburg - Prussia.
The Presentation of the Crown, Die Rote Adler Kammer. |
The Presentation of the Crown, Die Rote Adler Kammer. |
Next we enter Der Rittersaal [The Old Throne Room or Knight's Hall] which lies above Portal V. Here the gorgeous rococo decoration of 1702 reaches its culmination with friezes in relief, cornices and parapets. The ceiling painting by Johann Friedrich Wentzel emphasizes the beneficial effect on the Arts and Sciences which the new Prussian Crown brought with it. The well-designed life-sized allegorical groups above the side-doors representing the four continents of the globe are among Schlüter's best work. The beautiful carving of the large central door also deserves notice. The gallery above it was formerly of solid silver.
An imposing collection of gold and silver can be seen on the handsome sideboard and mostly dates from the time of the first two Prussian Kings. The silver buffet service is now on view in the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. The crystal chandelier, which Luther is said to have stood under in the Diet of 1521, was purchased from the City of
Location of the Old Throne Room |
Der Rittersaal |
The Throne Canopy and Ceiling Decoration, Der Rittersaal |
Der Rittersaal Gallery, formerly in Solid Silver |
Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer [The Black Eagle Chamber] follows and contains a large picture by Camphausen representing
The Black Eagle Chamber formed a counterpart to the Brandenburg Chamber. Both of them framed Der Rittersaal with the three rooms forming a solemn triad. The room and ceiling decoration, skillfully designed by Schlüter and brilliantly carried out by the Artist Terwesten Augustin, was again very successful dedicated to the acquisition of the Prussian Royal Crown in 1701. This highly significant event, which provided the major impetus for rebuilding the old Castle, was clearly and vividy illustrated in this room.
Location of the Black Eagle Chamber |
The Prussian Black Eagle, Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer |
Ceiling painting, Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer |
Ceiling painting, Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer |
Guilded Plasterwork & Painting, Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer |
Guilded Plasterwork & Painting, Die Schwärzer Adler Kammer |
Die Rote Samt Kammer [The Red Velvet Room] contains good portraits of the "Great Elector", of Friedrich I. and of Sophia Charlotte, wife of the latter, all in handsome old frames. The old furniture and hangings are evident.
Of smaller dimensions than the previous room, the original red wall coverings were original. Otherwise much had been renovated in the 19th century. The ceiling paintings are by Paul Carl Leygebe according to a design by Schlüter. Furniture from this room still exists, the carved seat today being in Schloß Charlottenburg.
Location of the Red Velvet Chamber |
Die Rote Samt Kammer |
Die Rote Samt Kammer Cornice & Ceiling |
Die Rote Samt Kammer Cornice |
Die Alte Kapelle / Kapitelsaal [The Old Chapel] retained its original function until a new Chapel was built in the Palace Dome in 1844-1852. This room was then restored in 1879 and fitted up as the Chapter House for meetings of the Knights of the Order of the Black Eagle.
Die Alte Kapelle |
We next enter Die Bildergalerie [The Picture Gallery] which is located above Portal IV. Built in 1710 to designs by Johann Friedrich Eosander, it has a length of 196 foot and leads into the new Gallery of the White Saloon. The picture gallery is also used as a banquet-hall and can accommodate 400 guests.
Hung in the gallery are portraits of Charles I and his Queen by Van Dyck; King Friedrich I's Last Review by Koch; The Prussian Fleet at Tres Forcas (1856) by Röching; King Friedrich I by Pesne; The Coronation of King Wilhelm I at Königsberg in 1861 by Menzel; Emperor Wilhelm I by Winterhalter; Emperor Friedrich by Keinke; Emperor Wilhelm II and Empress Victoria by Von Angelie; King Wilhelm Proclaimed German Emperor at Versailles in 1871, and Emperor Wilhelm II opening the Reichstag for the first time in 1888 by Anton Von Werner. At the end of the gallery is a sculpture of Queen Louise and her Sister by Schadow.
The Picture Gallery and the adjoining new Gallery of the White Saloon / Weisser Saal Galerie (Gobelin Gallery - No 14 on plan) appear to have been treated as one room for the purpose of displaying not only paintings but also Gobelin tapestries ordered in 1690 to commemorate the campaigns of Friedrich III. The tapestries are now exhibited in Schloss Oranienburg.
The vault of the Picture Gallery and the ceiling of the west adjoining Gobelin Gallery are decorated with stucco work and paintings. Among the ceiling frescoes are four paintings depicting scenes from the (then) recent history of Prussia by the famous painter Jan Anthonie Coxcie.
Die Bildgalerie / Gobelin Gallery Ceiling |
Die Bildgalerie / Gobelin Gallery Ceiling |
Seven large white marble arched openings lead from the Gobelin Gallery / Weisser Saal Galerie directly through to Der Weiße Saal [The White Saloon], a large hall 105 feet in length, 50 feet in width, and 40 feet in height, completed by Stühler in 1844 and remodelled by Ernst v. Ihne in 1894-95. It became the first festival hall in Berlin to be electrified with indirect lighting replacing the earlier chandeliers. Heating was provided by filtered hot air forced up through vents from the palace cellar. One could finally celebrate huge balls without soot from the numerous candles and heating ruining expensive Court dresses. Although still covered in white marble, the ceiling was now gilded and colored, so that the hall had a distinctly warmer appearance than its predecessor. [Unlike the majority of the Berlin Palace, Der Weiße Saal suffered significantly less war damage, enabling it to be partially restored in 1946 and then used as an exhibition space until 1948].
The reliefs on the vaulting between the walls and the ceiling are by O. Lessing and represent victorious war as the fosterer of art, science, trade, and industry. The niches in the side of the hall are occupied by two statues and seven statues of Prussian rulers at the age of their accession to the throne. The opening of the Reichstag and the Landtag (Prussian Diet) took place in the White Saloon.
The final room in the public tour is the Schloß Kapelle [Palace Chapel] located in the Dome above Portal III being reached by the staircase at the south west end of the White Saloon. The Palace Chapel is an octagonal room, 113 feet in height, and 68-75 feet in diameter, being lined and paved with marble of different colours, and adorned with frescoes on a gold background. The altar with its four columns is of yellow Egyptian marble. Seating is provided for 600 persons. The acoustic properties of the chapel are however very poor.
Location of the Palace Chapel |
The Schloß Kapelle |
The Chapel terminated the series of rooms shown to the general public. Other significant areas of the Palace were almost never open for public viewing. These included the chambers of King Friedrich Wilhelm II (1787 - 1798), the living quarters of King Friedrich Wilhelm IV (1795 - 1861) in the north east part of the Palace, and the private apartments of Emperor Wilhelm II which were located on the first floor facing the Schloßplatz to the south east.
Bibliography :
"Baedeckers Northern Germany", 1900 (from my personal collection)
Fördverein Berliner Schloss e.V.
http://www.berliner-stadtschloss.de/
Farbdiaarchiv zur Wand - und Deckenmalerei